After Guatemala and Nicaragua, things ratcheted up several notches in terms of tourist infrastructure, prices and pace. Suddenly the buses had enough seats for everyone, they came and went on time, poverty was less evident and many people spoke English. In fact young Costa Ricans love to practice English making it challenging for intrepid Spanish students to get practice. I knew that Costa Rica would be heavily touristed and was hoping to avoid the busiest tourist areas and find more remote and natural areas to explore.
My first week, beginning Friday, March 6, was to be on my own, and during week two friend Keith from Ottawa would join me (brave soul).
On the long trip through Nicaragua across the border and to San Jose, I worked out my plan to head to Corcovado National park on the Osa Peninsula. This was an area that Grant and I had not visited when we came to CR in the mid-1990s. It was touted by National Geographic as the most biologically diverse region on earth, and was suitably difficult to reach. When I arrived in San Jose I booked a 4 day package at El Mirador Lodge in Drake Bay and was picked up at 6:00am the next morning by a shuttle bus.
After a five hour bus ride to Sierpe, I and several other intrepid voyageurs, boarded the launcha for a 2 hour trip downriver, through a mangrove shaded
channel and out into the open water of Drake Bay. The setting was stunning: miles of unspoiled coastline and beautiful deserted beaches. Only minor hiccup was caused by the Costa Rica Coast Guard which pulled over our launcha for some unknown reason. After much discussion and radio calls they determined that our captain was without proper papers to navigate in these waters. Oops! He had to produce papers by 3:00 that afternoon, but fortunately was able to complete our voyage. I was impressed with the thoroughness of the Costa Rican authorities. With the endemic corruption with virtually all authorities in Guatemala, this was a nice change.
El Mirador is a rustic lodge along the Drake Bay coast, relatively hidden from view and accessible by road only during the dry season, which was now. It is at the edge of Corcovado
National Park We pulled up to the beach and waded to shore with backpacks. Guests stay in quaint - and did I say rustic - cottages nestled in the woods, all with spectacular ocean views, but without electricity. That means candles -- a very romantic prospect when coupled -- charming but a little ann
oying when travelling solo. El Mirador creates a very friendly atmosphere, helped by communal dining for three massive and tasty meals per day. Other guests hailed from the United States, Germany, Italy, Costa Rica and Canada (a fun couple, Shawn and Julia, who work for Discovery Channel in Toronto).
But going to Drake Bay is all about exp
eriencing the magificent wilderness of Corcovado National Park, on land, in the air and in the water. My first taste was at sunset on Day 1 from the lookout at the lodge. There, with beer in hand, we watched the sunset, while flocks of parrots flew overhead and pairs of Scarlet macaws, with characteristic call, sought their evening sanctuary. This was magic.
Montezuma was also the sight of a truly memorable evening when Chris, J
essica and Camilla from Norway invited us to join them at their place for Chris´s amazing dish of fresh-caught shrimp with coconut milk and vegetables, which we all helped to prepare. Some fine white wine complemented the feast.
My first week, beginning Friday, March 6, was to be on my own, and during week two friend Keith from Ottawa would join me (brave soul).
On the long trip through Nicaragua across the border and to San Jose, I worked out my plan to head to Corcovado National park on the Osa Peninsula. This was an area that Grant and I had not visited when we came to CR in the mid-1990s. It was touted by National Geographic as the most biologically diverse region on earth, and was suitably difficult to reach. When I arrived in San Jose I booked a 4 day package at El Mirador Lodge in Drake Bay and was picked up at 6:00am the next morning by a shuttle bus.
After a five hour bus ride to Sierpe, I and several other intrepid voyageurs, boarded the launcha for a 2 hour trip downriver, through a mangrove shaded
channel and out into the open water of Drake Bay. The setting was stunning: miles of unspoiled coastline and beautiful deserted beaches. Only minor hiccup was caused by the Costa Rica Coast Guard which pulled over our launcha for some unknown reason. After much discussion and radio calls they determined that our captain was without proper papers to navigate in these waters. Oops! He had to produce papers by 3:00 that afternoon, but fortunately was able to complete our voyage. I was impressed with the thoroughness of the Costa Rican authorities. With the endemic corruption with virtually all authorities in Guatemala, this was a nice change.El Mirador is a rustic lodge along the Drake Bay coast, relatively hidden from view and accessible by road only during the dry season, which was now. It is at the edge of Corcovado
National Park We pulled up to the beach and waded to shore with backpacks. Guests stay in quaint - and did I say rustic - cottages nestled in the woods, all with spectacular ocean views, but without electricity. That means candles -- a very romantic prospect when coupled -- charming but a little annoying when travelling solo. El Mirador creates a very friendly atmosphere, helped by communal dining for three massive and tasty meals per day. Other guests hailed from the United States, Germany, Italy, Costa Rica and Canada (a fun couple, Shawn and Julia, who work for Discovery Channel in Toronto).But going to Drake Bay is all about exp
eriencing the magificent wilderness of Corcovado National Park, on land, in the air and in the water. My first taste was at sunset on Day 1 from the lookout at the lodge. There, with beer in hand, we watched the sunset, while flocks of parrots flew overhead and pairs of Scarlet macaws, with characteristic call, sought their evening sanctuary. This was magic.Next morning we boarded a boat for a snorkelling trip off Caño Island Biological Reserve. Our guide was a young local guy who was very knowledgeable about sea life in Corcovado. A herd of dolphins crossed our path shortly after starting out, playfully leaping all around our boat. Our two snorkel trips yielded an incredible array of sea life including 3 white sand sharks, manta rays, and numerous types of brilliantly coloured tropical fish. 
On our way back we saw the last Humpback Whale left in the bay for the season. She had apparently remained due to the risk of travel to colder waters for her nursing calf. Mother and child humpback put on an amazing display including a full breach. It was neat to see humpbacks in their winter location, as we see them regularly off Newfoundland in the summer.
Next day´s expedition (beginning with a cold shower by candlelight at 5:00am!!) was a full day trek through the National Park, including a stop at one of the Ranger Stations. Our guide was a local woman whose passion for this place and its wildlife was truly infectious. And, as if doing her a favour for being so ent
husiastic, the wildlife appeared in droves. Our sightings included 3 kinds of monkeys (howler, spider and white-faced capuchin), an enormous sleeping tapir, a herd of some 20 or so peccaries (a type of wild pig), both two-toed and three-toed sloths, one with a baby, white-tailed deer, a coati and a crocodile floating down the river. Our most unusual sighting was of a 15-foot long boa constrictor, sufficiently close to the path for us to get a g
ood view but not too close to cause (much) alarm. Of course, there were too many bird species to name - not that I could anyway. The highlight for me was the scarlet macaws which contentedly munched cashews from a tree on the beach. (Should have bought the bird book of Costa Rica, as many of our group had!)
On our way back we saw the last Humpback Whale left in the bay for the season. She had apparently remained due to the risk of travel to colder waters for her nursing calf. Mother and child humpback put on an amazing display including a full breach. It was neat to see humpbacks in their winter location, as we see them regularly off Newfoundland in the summer.Next day´s expedition (beginning with a cold shower by candlelight at 5:00am!!) was a full day trek through the National Park, including a stop at one of the Ranger Stations. Our guide was a local woman whose passion for this place and its wildlife was truly infectious. And, as if doing her a favour for being so ent
husiastic, the wildlife appeared in droves. Our sightings included 3 kinds of monkeys (howler, spider and white-faced capuchin), an enormous sleeping tapir, a herd of some 20 or so peccaries (a type of wild pig), both two-toed and three-toed sloths, one with a baby, white-tailed deer, a coati and a crocodile floating down the river. Our most unusual sighting was of a 15-foot long boa constrictor, sufficiently close to the path for us to get a good view but not too close to cause (much) alarm. Of course, there were too many bird species to name - not that I could anyway. The highlight for me was the scarlet macaws which contentedly munched cashews from a tree on the beach. (Should have bought the bird book of Costa Rica, as many of our group had!) Finished the day by hir
ing a kayak for a quick paddle up the coast to watch the sunset over the Pacific from the water- a truly memorable sight. And when I returned the kayak, I encountered the only type of monkey that we had not seen during the day: a family of tiny yellow squirrel monkeys busily munching the fruit from an applewood tree.
ing a kayak for a quick paddle up the coast to watch the sunset over the Pacific from the water- a truly memorable sight. And when I returned the kayak, I encountered the only type of monkey that we had not seen during the day: a family of tiny yellow squirrel monkeys busily munching the fruit from an applewood tree. As if that was not enough activity for one day, several us from the lodge also went on a nocturnal tour of the jungle with another excellent guide. This was not a tour for the feint of heart, replete as it was with snakes, poisonous frogs and other reptiles, and countless fascinating spiders, including tarantulas. Mind you many of the others make tarantulas seem as harmless as lady bugs. The r
ate of change among the reptile life in Costa Rica is staggering, caused by climate change and other unknown factors. Our Guide told us, for example, that in one year alone, several years ago, some 30 species of frogs became extinct.
Seeing all of this wildlife in its natural setting was a truly moving and humbling experience. I was struck, though, by how fragile it all is. Rainfall this year in Corcovado is way down and the forest is far dryer than it had been in years. Many of the rivers are completely dried up.
ate of change among the reptile life in Costa Rica is staggering, caused by climate change and other unknown factors. Our Guide told us, for example, that in one year alone, several years ago, some 30 species of frogs became extinct.Seeing all of this wildlife in its natural setting was a truly moving and humbling experience. I was struck, though, by how fragile it all is. Rainfall this year in Corcovado is way down and the forest is far dryer than it had been in years. Many of the rivers are completely dried up.
There also continues to be pressure for more development in Drake Bay and for bigger hotels with a larger environmental footprint. And most concerning, the Government is considering putting an airport right into the park to increase numbers of visitors, already at high levels. The prospect of this remote and wild place becoming as developed as Manual Antonio National Park, which was recently closed for a time due to high pollution levels, scares many of the guides and local residents.
After three wonderful days, I depart Corcovado early in the morning by launcha. It takes me a full day of travel to get back to San Jose and the next day I meet Keith at the airport - fresh from the frigid Ottawa winter. We head for the Guanacaste Peninsula and the beach town of Montezuma. This involves bus, ferry and then another bus and takes a full day. Montezuma proves to be a really fun time, especially since we run into my German friends Jessica and Chris on the ferry. They are heading to the same place.
After three wonderful days, I depart Corcovado early in the morning by launcha. It takes me a full day of travel to get back to San Jose and the next day I meet Keith at the airport - fresh from the frigid Ottawa winter. We head for the Guanacaste Peninsula and the beach town of Montezuma. This involves bus, ferry and then another bus and takes a full day. Montezuma proves to be a really fun time, especially since we run into my German friends Jessica and Chris on the ferry. They are heading to the same place.
Montezuma is at the end of the road down this coast and historically has attracted "end of the road" kinds of people, who earned it a laid-back, bohemian reputation. More recently, it attracts surfers who love the endless white beaches and huge surf. It was also the home of a Danish couple who fought in the 1960s and 1970s to protect Costa Rica´s wild areas and create the national park system that is Costa Rica´s hallmark today. Tragically, the man of the couple lost his life in the struggle which pitted powerful developers anxious to develop the gold and other resources within many of the parks against fledling groups of environmental activists.
We spent three
days here, enjoying the beautiful coastline, some great meals of fish at great restaurants and, thanks to Chris, receiving surfing (or shall I say boogie-boarding) lessons. This was fantastic - something like learning to ski for the first time. The exhilaration of catching the big wave at just the right point and being carried right up on to the beach was amazing. I fear thatI shall be doing this again soon-- may even become a surfer dude, bohemian type myself!! Muchas gracias Chris!
days here, enjoying the beautiful coastline, some great meals of fish at great restaurants and, thanks to Chris, receiving surfing (or shall I say boogie-boarding) lessons. This was fantastic - something like learning to ski for the first time. The exhilaration of catching the big wave at just the right point and being carried right up on to the beach was amazing. I fear thatI shall be doing this again soon-- may even become a surfer dude, bohemian type myself!! Muchas gracias Chris!Montezuma was also the sight of a truly memorable evening when Chris, J
essica and Camilla from Norway invited us to join them at their place for Chris´s amazing dish of fresh-caught shrimp with coconut milk and vegetables, which we all helped to prepare. Some fine white wine complemented the feast.Next we were off to the centre of Costa Rica near La Fortuna Volcano, which meant a short flight to San Jose (via Nature Air - the world´s first carbon neutral airline) and then another flight to La Fortuna. Airport in Montezuma was little more than a bus stop where passengers load their own luggage into the plane, security is nil and passengers are checked off a list on a clipboard. Ahhhhh the way air travel used to be!
Keith had turned up this interesting place near La Fortuna called Rancho Margot which provided some very worthwhile experiences. The recent Costa Rica Lonely Planet guide gives 2 full pages to describing the environmental v
ision and reality at Rancho Margot, owned by a Chilean-American and his son. It aims to be an entirely self-sufficient ranch, retreat centre and environmental learning complex. It models the latest in recycling and energy self-sufficiency technology while providing visits with unique ex
periences in the Costa Rican wilderness. For example, most of the food served in the dining room is grown on the premises, biofuel is generated from the manure to heat the water, and electricity is generated from the river running through the property.
ision and reality at Rancho Margot, owned by a Chilean-American and his son. It aims to be an entirely self-sufficient ranch, retreat centre and environmental learning complex. It models the latest in recycling and energy self-sufficiency technology while providing visits with unique ex
periences in the Costa Rican wilderness. For example, most of the food served in the dining room is grown on the premises, biofuel is generated from the manure to heat the water, and electricity is generated from the river running through the property. The buildings are beautifully designed and can accommodate volunteers in dorms, backpackers in a lodge and the more well-heeled in gorgeous cottages. They offer a f
ull range of activities and Keith and I took in a tour of the site as well as a trail ride on horseback. The highlight of Rancho Margot for me, though, was when the owner´s son took several of us guests, including 2 other Canadians from Vancouver, to the secret "hot springs river" for a soak under the moonlight. The peacefulness of that experience was matched only by the hairraising pickup truck ride to get there over a road full of potholes the size of hot tubs.
ull range of activities and Keith and I took in a tour of the site as well as a trail ride on horseback. The highlight of Rancho Margot for me, though, was when the owner´s son took several of us guests, including 2 other Canadians from Vancouver, to the secret "hot springs river" for a soak under the moonlight. The peacefulness of that experience was matched only by the hairraising pickup truck ride to get there over a road full of potholes the size of hot tubs. Next day Keith went on to do some white water rafting and ziplining (the young and the crazy!!)as I headed back to San Jose where this "most excellent" Costa Rican adventure ended and I prepared to depart for Quito. It was great having him join me for this leg of the journey - but would he do it again? =:-)
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